Some people chase the soft life, while others, like me, go hunting for the toughest challenges out there. I had heard all sorts of hilarious horror stories about the 12 Apostles Trail, but who needs easy? On the 24th of February 2024, I decided to take on this beast. We left Nairobi at exactly 3 AM and were at the Njabini Forest Station gate by 5:30 AM. Let me tell you, nothing could have prepared me for the gut-wrenching adventure that lay ahead.

The 12 Apostles Trail takes you through the infamous Elephant Hill, the haunting Kinangop Valley, and finally to the 12 Apostles peaks in the vast Aberdare National Park. Covering about 33 to 34 km (though my phone died an hour before I could confirm), the hike took me a solid 14 hours and 30 minutes to complete. This trek is for those of us who crave adventure and love to push their limits until they have none left.

The Journey Begins

I thought I was prepared. I packed food (ugali, pork, and greens) and aimed to eat a solid three hours before the hike. Alas, I fell asleep and ended up leaving my beloved ugali behind the driver’s seat. I would live to regret this dearly when my stomach started plotting a hostile takeover of my back.

As soon as we alighted from the van, the heavens opened up, and it started pouring. I was convinced the rain would pass. Spoiler alert: it didn’t. It rained from start to finish, and by 6 AM, we were trekking in darkness with the rain pounding on our resolve.

The Trek from Hell

Fresh elephant tracks greeted us at Bamboo. Having grown up at the foot of Mount Kenya where elephants regularly invaded our farms, this was less than reassuring. A sane person would’ve turned back, but not me. I soldiered on.

Nothing, I repeat, nothing prepares you for the descent past Elephant Hill. It was a steep, muddy, watery slide of doom. Walking was futile, so I embraced the inevitable and slid down on my backayard. The real horror was knowing that I’d have to climb back up the same slope later.

Our phenomenal guide, Zachery, advised us to stick together as a team. The rain and wind were relentless, but our hearts were made of steel. When we reached the Kinangop-12 Apostles junction, Zachery told us we were about three hours from the summit. Seeing the despair in our eyes, he quickly revised that to two hours.

The Countless Falls and the Unholy Mud Bath

I lost count of how many times I fell. My raincoat and poncho served as mere fashion accessories than protection gear. At one point, I stepped on an unstable bog and sank into the mud up to my thighs. I was the only lady in the group, and the men held their breath, fearing I might be swallowed whole. But no, I pulled myself out of the mud like a determined toddler and continued the trek. My fingers were frozen, as I forgot to carry my hiking gloves, and I got numerous cuts from the hard grass and rocks. Fortunately, the numbness from the cold spared me from feeling the pain—I only noticed the blood later.

Rock Climbing on All Fours

As we neared the summit, there was a section so steep that the only way up was on all fours. And let me tell you, every ascent on all fours means a descent on your ass. It was a literal uphill battle.

The Anti-Climactic Summit

We reached the summit around 2 PM, just in time for the heavens to bless us with yet another downpour. I guess they were celebrating our achievement. At the very least, there should’ve been a signboard saying, “Sorry for Your Suffering” or “Congratulations on Conquering Thyself on Kenya’s Toughest Day Trail.”

We cracked a few jokes, captured some soggy videos, and braced ourselves for the return journey. Spoiler alert: the return is even worse.

The Unplanned Nature Call

I’m not sure if it was my body’s way of releasing the tension, sheer terror at the thought of the journey back, or just my body’s way of saying, “Enough is enough,” but suddenly, I had an urgent, undeniable need to, well, answer nature’s call. Ignoring it was out of the question—it was coming whether I liked it or not. Let me tell you, lowering wet clothes in the middle of a rain-soaked hike is no small feat, but getting them back on? That’s a whole other level of struggle #Sigh!

The Hunger Strike…

I wasn’t prepared for the hunger that struck on the way back. My mind kept drifting to the ugali hanging behind the driver’s seat. Thankfully, I had dates, which sustained us through the grueling trek.

As we reached the Kinangop–12 Apostles junction, our guide Zachary, whose hearing could rival that of an elephant, suddenly said he could hear someone screaming. Without hesitation, he dashed off to investigate. The screams, it turned out, came from another group—a gentleman who had twisted his leg and a lady, both stranded in the forest. Zachary had safely guided them back to Elephant Hill and alerted their organizer, who then sent a search party to rescue the rest of their lost group, still wandering in the forest as night closed in. He then caught up with us just as past the Tail.

The Return to Njabini

We finally made it back to Njabini at around 10:30 PM, cold, exhausted, but victorious. We changed and headed to Njambi town, where ugali, nyama, cabbage, and hot tea awaited us like a hero’s feast.

Even though I had trained hard for this hike, including daily weighted squats and 30 km walks in Karura every Sunday, this trek was more about mental toughness than physical strength. Zachery, our guide, was our saving grace, our David against the Goliath that was the mountain, the rain, and any lurking elephants.

Lessons from the Trail

Hiking the 12 Apostles taught me humility and respect for every mountain. It reminded me that I can achieve anything I set my mind to. The mountains continue to heal my heart and soul—what the Japanese call forest bathing.

So, if you’re thinking of taking on the 12 Apostles, be warned: it’s the hardest day hike in Kenya, but it’s doable. Just conquer yourself, surrender to the mountains, and you’ll thrive.

Why the name 12 Apostles, you ask? Because you’ll find yourself praying to every god, saint, and apostle you can think of—Allah, Ngai wa Kĩrĩnyaga, the Hindu gods, and, of course, all 12 Apostles by name.

Was it worth it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? You bet! But maybe next time, I’ll wait for sunny weather—they say it’s easier and more fun then.

Shoutout to Japesa Fitness for planning this insane adventure!

Link: Japesa Fitness